Learn how to prep and paint over stained wood for flawless results that last.
- What Kind Of Paint Brush For Staining Wood
- Best Brushes For Staining Wood
- Paint Brush For Stain
- Best Paint Brush For Staining Wood
- Best Paint Brush For Staining Wood
- Paint Brushes For Staining
- Best Brush For Staining Cedar
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Start by spraying off surface dirt with water and then scrubbing with bleach to kill any mold or mildew. Then use a wire brush to remove any chipping pieces of wood or peeling paint. To prepare the workspace for painting, cover all surrounding areas with painter’s tape.
Q: My childhood dresser is beautiful but the wood stain looks faded. I’d love to update it with fresh paint and new hardware, but I’ve heard that you can’t get good results painting over stain. Is that true—and if not, what’s the best way to paint over wood stain?
A: Kudos to you for doing right by a family heirloom! And you certainly can paint over stain, choosing the method that best suits the type of stain on the surface and the kind of paint you wish to use. Keep in mind, however, that proper prep is essential; skimp on these steps and tannins from the stain would likely bleed unattractively onto the fresh paint. Read on to learn how to get great results when painting over wood stain.
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Always prepare the wood before you paint over stain.
Before you prep, determine the type of wood stain (oil- or water-based) that you’re dealing with by lightly sprinkling water on a small patch of the wood surface. If the water beads up after about a minute, the stain is oil-based (oil repels water). Then, follow these general preparatory steps for painting over stain:
- First, clean the stained surface with soapy water to remove any dust, dirt, and cobwebs.
- Next, to dull the stain, lightly sand the surface with 150-grit or finer sandpaper, moving in the direction of the grain to avoid crosshatching in the final result. Sponge away any dust from your sanding process.
- Then dip a rang into deglosser and wipe down the surface. Deglosser, also known as “liquid sandpaper,” contains heavy solvents that strip the finish off wood surfaces faster than manual sanding. Because chemical deglossers contain volatile compounds harmful to lungs and skin, always wear a safety mask and gloves and work in a well-ventilated space. Allow the surface to dry for at least 10 minutes.
- Repair any holes, scratches, or other damage with wood filler. Sand again to smooth the surface and clean with a damp rag.
- Brush on a quick-dry primer to ensure that paint adheres fully to the prepared surface—and save you lots of drying time. Wait an hour, and you’re ready to paint.
Use latex primer and paint when painting over a water-based wood stain.
Paint adheres well over water-based stain, so after completing the prep steps outlined above, apply a water-based latex primer with a brush or a roller. To ensure the best results, ask your paint store to tint the primer a similar color to your top coat. Apply two coats of latex paint over the primer for complete coverage. Always wait before the first coat is completely dry—typically overnight—before applying a second coat.
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Special prep is required when painting over oil-based wood stains.
It’s possible to cover oil-based finish with either latex paint or oil-based paint, but additional surface prep is needed. First, don safety goggles and gloves, and turn on a fan to circulate the air in your work area. Next, dissolve a quarter-cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) in one gallon of warm water. Dip a soft sponge into the mixture, wring out, and wipe down the surface, soaking up all dirt and grime. Repeat and let the surface air dry. Sand all rough areas and wipe clean with a damp rag. Now apply a bonding primer—a water-based formula designed to adhere to glossy and other hard-to-paint surfaces (such as varnish and polyurethane)—following product directions carefully. Finally, apply two coats of paint. For indoor projects, use interior paint. For outdoor projects, choose an “interior/exterior” formula, which will resist rot and extreme weather.
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For a matte finish, use chalk paint and a polyurethane top coat.
Chalk paint is a water-based formula that will stick to almost anything. It is perfect for updating antiques, creating a matte finish that can easily be distressed for a “shabby chic” feel. First, patch-test the chalk paint on an inconspicuous spot and let dry eight hours. If the paint adheres without bleed-through, you can paint without priming. If, however, you notice streaks, prime with a bonding, stain-blocking primer such as Valspar’s primer/sealer (available at Lowe’s).
Follow the basic steps of clean, sand, prime, paint. Wait overnight for the first coat of chalk paint to dry, then apply a second coat. Because chalky surface can scratch more easily, protect your paint job with a polyurethane top coat. Wait seven days for the painted surface to fully cure, then apply a thin coat of matte polyurethane such as Rustoleum’s Ultimate Polyurethane (available on Amazon) to the surface. Allow it to dry overnight, then lightly sand any rough areas with a 220-grit sandpaper. Repeat this step if necessary, applying a second thin polyurethane top coat and sanding any rough areas the next day.
Spruce up forgettable furnishings or bare walls with the “faux bois” technique, which results in paint that looks just like wood.
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The ageless patina of wood grain makes it a popular material for home furnishings. Unfortunately, solid wood pieces—side tables, bedroom dressers, and chair—cost a pretty penny.
Thankfully, an innovative painting technique called “faux bois” (French for “false wood”) can offer the perfect compromise for do-it-yourselfers who budget for laminate furniture but dream of wood grain look. Using this technique, homeowners can mimic a natural-looking wood grain on non-wood surfaces, ranging from medium-density fiberboard to drywall. What’s more, the painter has full control over the color and variation of the faux wood grain, so they can dictate how to add texture to otherwise flat surfaces.
With two shades of latex paint and a simple acrylic glaze, you can apply paint that looks like wood to all of your favorite home accents.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS Available on Amazon
– Painter’s tape
– Sanding block
– Finegrit sandpaper
– Microfiber cloth
– Oilbased primer
– Natural bristle paintbrush
– Paint roller
– Paint roller covers
– Latex paint (2 shades)
– Synthetic bristle brush
– Paint mixing jar
– Clear acrylic glaze
– Paint pans
– Wood grain rocker
– Paper towels
STEP 1
To prepare the workspace for painting, cover all surrounding areas with painter’s tape. You’ll also want to remove hinges, knobs, and other hardware or décor, in order to protect them from stray splatters. Lay down old newspaper beneath the workspace to keep sanding debris and paint drops off of floors and furnishings.
STEP 2
If painting engineered wood such as MDF, particle board, or plywood, use a sanding block to lightly sand the project surface. Sanding will slough off any upright fibers in the board and level out any bumps. Choose sandpaper in the grit range of 120 to 220 for already smooth surfaces like MDF, and start with a medium-grit sandpaper in the grit range of 60 to 100 for coarser engineered woods. Use a dry cloth to wipe away the sanding dust when finished.
STEP 3
If working with engineered wood, apply white primer to the entire project surface with a natural bristle brush or a paint roller. Some wood products like MDF tend to absorb water and swell, and they’re also prone to expanding or contracting with changes in temperature. For these types of wood, opt for an oil-based primer and coat both the top and underside of the project surface to help minimize warping. Dry the primer completely per the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you’re starting with bare or painted drywall, use a paint roller to apply a latex primer to the wall. Dry the primer completely per the manufacturer’s instructions.
STEP 4
With the project surface primed, you’re ready to apply a base coat of paint that looks like wood. Choose a low-luster latex paint that matches the undertones of the type of wood you want your project to mimic. For example, if you want the surface to bear resemblance to mahogany, opt for coral or dark red. For lighter woods like walnut or maple, select a shade of gold or orange.
Use a synthetic bristle brush or paint roller to cover the entire project surface in paint. When the paint dries, apply a second coat and then allow the coat to dry completely.
What Kind Of Paint Brush For Staining Wood
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STEP 5
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Now you’ll want to mix the glaze for your faux bois painting technique. In a paint mixing jar (view example on Amazon), combine equal parts clear acrylic glaze and a second latex paint pick. Opt for latex paint that is a similar to, but a few shades darker than, the base coat. Replace the cap on the jar and shake the contents to create a translucent tinted glaze. Later on, when you apply the glaze, you’ll want the base coat to still be visible through it.
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STEP 6
Pour the glaze into a paint pan, and load a synthetic bristle brush (or a roller with a quarter-inch nap roller cover) with the glaze. Working in sections 6 inches in width at a time, apply a thin layer of the glaze that extends the entire height of the project surface.
Best Paint Brush For Staining Wood
STEP 7
Create the faux wood grain in the fresh glaze. Position a wood grain rocker—a hand tool that creates a wood grain texture on painted surfaces (view example on Amazon)—at a top edge of the project’s surface. Then slowly drag the rocker down vertically, rocking the curved head of the tool from the top to bottom through the wet glaze until you reach the opposite end of the project surface.
To change the direction of the faux wood grain, simply flip the rocker and drag it in the opposite direction. To create variety with larger arches and a fine straight grain, position a graining comb—a triangular tool with teeth that mimics a grain texture—along the edge of the section you completed and pull the comb either straight down through the glaze or at a slight angle. This technique should create a more random (and therefore more natural) appearance.
Tip: Practice your wood grain rocker technique in advance by applying a thin layer of glaze to scrap cardboard or drywall board and pulling the hand tool through it. When you’re satisfied with your faux wood grain, move on to the main project surface.
STEP 8
Use a paper towel to wipe the glaze from the rocker and comb. Then move to the next 6-inch swath of the project surface, and repeat Steps 6 and 7. If you make a mistake, simply re-glaze the offending area and re-apply the faux wood grain.
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Continue this process until the faux wood grain covers the entire project surface.
STEP 9
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Allow the glaze to dry completely. Lastly, replace any hardware on the project surface, and step back to admire your faux bois finish!
Best Brush For Staining Cedar